Beverly Hills, a former cattle range turned city of $200 steaks, is mired in a controversy that highlights anew the crosscurrents buffeting the famed citadel of luxury.

The battle pits those who hope to import one of New York’s most famous hotels — the Waldorf-Astoria — and build a batch of new luxury condos against residents who say enough is enough, the streets are already clogged to the point of gridlock.

It pits a city administration that has recently approved several large commercial developments against those who yearn for the days when Beverly Hills had the charm of a village, albeit a village where natives cheered when Spago became a local hangout. It has set neighbor against neighbor and former mayor against former mayor.

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