With its picnic tables, overfed pigeons and fast-food stands, the kitschy barn-themed shopping center looks like a throwback from an era before air-conditioned malls took over the retail world.

There are no department stores and no glittering retail names like Tiffany or Chanel.

But make no mistake, the Brentwood Country Mart is filet mignon masquerading as meatloaf. A posh Beverly Hills restaurant runs the humble-looking taco stand. Wealthy locals and a sprinkling of celebrities come here to hang out, maybe get a haircut or shop at 20-odd stores that sell merchandise such as mouth-blown Italian vases and hand-painted furniture.

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