Patina kingpin Joachim Splichal is the undisputed leader of downtown dining with a half-dozen high-end establishments in a radius of barely 1 mile. Among them is Nick & Stef’s Steakhouse, named for his twin offspring. It’s nestled in the courtyard of the Wells Fargo Center, and offers certified prime and Angus beef dry-aged on the premises. Splichal’s steakhouse is a slick urban oasis, fitting aptly into the steel-and-glass backdrop of downtown Los Angeles.
Nick & Stef’s manages to carve out its own visual identity with ease. Featuring an outdoor patio surrounded by skyscrapers as well as several handsome dining rooms, the ambience is pleasing without trying too hard to impress. Though many of the steakhouse d & #233;cor clich & #233;s are present here (Abundance of leather? Masculine color scheme? Check and check.), the place is saved from a nightmare of trendiness with unique touches such as an exposed wine cellar and an acutely angled bar that juts out into the lounge like a sharpened spear. A trip to the loo brings diners past large sides of beef stored in a special room off the kitchen.
Though many of the offerings on the menu are a bit obscure (“cows in a blanket” savory crepes with red wine-braised beef and Vidalia onion marmalade springs to mind), the starters are relatively staid. Our tomato salad is a good, if not standard, version of a classic Caprese salad. The only notable deviation is a few mottled green tomatoes thrown in for their sharp tang. The big surprise is the incredible grilled barbecue shrimp cocktail. The large, succulent shrimp are perfectly done and expertly brushed with “stale ale” sauce, but it is the “firecracker slaw” underneath that wows us. What we initially consider an unnecessary garnish turns out to be a high point of the meal as we devour every kicky bite of the cabbage slaw.
For all the pomp surrounding Nick & Stef’s dry-aged premium beef, the steak is more than a little disappointing. At first glance it looks as though the New York steak, one of the priciest offered for lunch, is overcooked beyond our medium-rare request. Though one portion is still flavorful, we find the other side of the steak to be much rarer. What bothers us is not the uneven cooking, but the fact that it is riddled with unappetizing, sinewy strands and hard chunks of gristle. Frankly, we are too turned off to even send it back and instead counted our losses. Save for the first bites, it is one of the worst steaks I have ever eaten at a restaurant: No amount of Bernaise sauce can cover this gaffe.
Excellent option
The rockfish special is, thankfully, all the steak is not. Delicate and clean, the flaky filet (comparable to striped bass) is slightly crispy; the side dish is orso pasta with a lobster Bolognese that is not the heavy sauce we expect. It is an excellent option for those not wanting a heavy midday meal but something a little more refined than a sandwich and heartier than a salad.
We sample the accompaniments served a la carte. Nick & Stef’s gets a thumbs-up for interesting selections, including potatoes seven ways, and cauliflower and cheese fondue. We could have happily made a meal of the macaroni and cheese with parmesan crust. Instead, we munch on Szechuan green beans with pink peppercorns, well done like an authentic Chinese restaurant rather than the crisper version usually offered at American establishments. The potato gratin with aged cheddar is good, but a little heavy on the b & #233;chamel sauce for our taste. The JBS potato puree with “lots of butter,” as the menu asserts, is a better choice. The favorite is the roasted Cremini mushrooms. The “baby” portobellos are musky and rich, drowning in an herbed butter sauce that makes us sigh.
Less fussy than the desserts at any of the Patina group’s other outposts, Nick & Stef’s are better and more interesting than they read on the menu. Displaying the cleverness that pervades most of the offerings at Splichal’s spots is the Kit Kat bar. Layers of chocolate and cookie crunch make up this fancy pastiche of the favorite candy. Unbelievably rich, the raspberries atop are the perfect pairing. I could have done without the peanut butter ice cream, but somehow it works. Though not as inventive, the milk chocolate and Guinness bread pudding is even better, owing much to the hearty scoop of Bailey’s ice cream that crowns the mammoth slab.
One gripe: The coffee is terrible. Weak and watery, I wonder how many people sipped it out of politeness; we are the last table of the lunch service. The server seems genuinely surprised but doesn’t offer to make a new pot. Although he was notably absent for the preponderance of our pricey meal, he conveniently drops the che
ck with dessert and then hovers as we attempt to enjoy the last course.
It’s stunning when a steakhouse cannot deliver on their signature offering, but I will charitably assume that this is an aberration. What is not acceptable is the subpar service we received. Service needs to be stepped up to match the food and atmosphere.
NICK & STEF’S
Where: 330 S. Hope St., Los Angeles, 90071. Cross Street: Third Street
When: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Monday through Friday. Dinner, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., Monday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Friday; 5 to 10:30 p.m., Saturday; 4:30 to 8:30 p.m., Sunday
What to Try: Grilled barbecue shrimp cocktail, rockfish with lobster Bolognese, roasted Cremini mushrooms
Noise Level: Low
Meeting Room: Yes, several
Parking: Wells Fargo Center valet, $7
Price Range: Appetizers, $7-$18; entrees, $12-40
Reservations: (213) 680-0330
Reviewer Lindsey Styrwoll can be reached at [email protected].
