La Cachette Offers Satisfying French Fare Without the Fat

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LA CACHETTE


Food

:

****



Service

:

****



Atmosphere

:

***


Where:

10506 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, 90025. Cross Street: Thayer


When:

Monday through Friday, 12 p.m. to 2 p.m.; Monday through Thursday, 6 to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 6 to 10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 6 to 9 p.m.


What to Try:

Blue crab tower salad, ahi tuna tartar with chile paste and coconut, grilled swordfish with horseradish emulsion, rack of lamb in thyme garlic jus, chocolate souffle, strawberry-rhubarb tart, apple tart with caramel sauce


Parking:

Valet, $4.50; complimentary during lunch


Price Range:

Lunch appetizers, $13-25; entrees, $24-35


For any restaurant, a good host is invaluable. This goes doubly for a place like La Cachette. This impossible-to-find Century City spot is aptly named, translating from the French as “the hideaway.” A large part of the hostess’ time is spent on the phone, reeling in diners who are lost among the mess of construction on Santa Monica Boulevard. At this point, she is an expert.


Opened 13 years ago by owner and executive chef Jean Francois Meteigner, La Cachette tries to do what most would consider sacrilegious serving French food that is health-conscious. When asked why he would attempt such a feat, laughing in the face of purists everywhere, Meteigner replies simply, “I got older.” Despite his campaign against cream sauce, his pedigree is undeniable due to his internship at 15 in a three-star restaurant in his native France to his 10-year stint as executive chef at now-shuttered L’Orangerie.


Tucked away from the bustle of the boulevard, down an alley in a mostly residential neighborhood, the interior exudes a serene maturity rarely found in the city’s more trendy spots. With its provincial French d & #233;cor, the main dining room is filled with whitewashed wood and muted yellows accented with cornflower blue. Dramatic floral arrangements with large sunflowers dominate the decidedly feminine room. The clients are on the mature side, but their loyalty to Meteigner’s cooking speaks volumes.


The departures from traditional French fare are apparent just skimming the menu: There is the vegan soup of the day and a non-dairy crab and lobster bisque. The butternut squash ravioli a staple on every menu in town skips the usual brown butter sauce in favor of a pineapple-ginger concoction. According to Meteigner, such innovations are time-consuming, but worth every minute in terms of the finished product. The ravioli may not be for everyone, but it’s hard not to appreciate the interesting flavor combination.


More accessible is the ahi tuna tartar, this time jazzed up with a bit of organic Korean chile paste and coconut. The additions are so subtle they are almost undetectable, but succeed in giving the fish another dimension. The only slight disappointment among the appetizers is a warm lobster salad with artichokes and truffle oil dressing. It’s on the bland side.


Between courses the waiters silently and deliberately exchange flatware and plates, dutifully replenishing water glasses. The service here is top notch. There are no big personalities, just dedicated servers well-versed in the art of fine dining. The hostess is as adept at describing the daily specials as she is at giving directions. And her recommendations are excellent.


At her urging, we order the rack of lamb, roasted with a tapenade crust and garlic thyme jus. It is fantastic, truly praiseworthy. The meat is pink and juicy on the inside and wonderfully tender. Underneath in the pool of jus is an arrangement of eggplant accompanied by tiny raviolini, a welcome surprise hidden beneath the lamb. It is so good that the black cod we also ordered is nearly forgotten, although a very good staff suggestion as well.


It is the grilled swordfish that best exemplifies the signature style of La Cachette. Served in a horseradish-wasabi-mustard emulsion, the sweetness of the lean fish is reminiscent of turkey and holds up admirably to the strong flavors. The portion is large but doesn’t leave one feeling heavy, just satisfied. Strangely, the soup paired on the menu with the entrees is never offered, and though there is certainly enough food, this is slightly confusing given the on-point service.


A word of advice: do not skip dessert. While not technically qualifying as health food, the splurge-worthy desserts are all organic and made from scratch. The bittersweet chocolate souffle is the requisite ending for any fancy French meal, and Meteigner’s is more than passable, served with whipped cream and vanilla sauce. But it is the fruit tarts that come out on top: made to order, the still-warm flaky crusts are perfection. We sample the apple and mixed berry, but the runaway favorite is the strawberry paired with the oft-forgotten rhubarb.


Though out of the way, La Cachette has been discovered by a core of loyal patrons partaking in this unique fusion of haute cuisine and healthy fare. Quickly becoming a new tradition, their holidays are celebrated here with special menus, and the private dining room is available for any occasion. This haven of refined dining is a superlative choice for both business diners and food enthusiasts who enjoy satisfying French fare without the fat.


Reviewer Lindsey Styrwoll can be reached at [email protected].

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