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Even with the cash infusion, that’s going to take some hard work. Glenoaks still lacks the funds to hire an experienced staff of managers and marketers. As a result, those tasks often fall to Fallon. On one recent occasion, when a chef fell ill, Fallon found himself in the kitchen, preparing the vats of marinade in which the meat soaks overnight before being dried in the ovens on large metal screens.

Still, Fallon considers himself fortunate. If the specter of age discrimination hovers over corporate America, at least he works for himself.

“I feel sorry for them all,” he said of older workers who have been in middle management for most of their careers. “All they can do is pray they don’t get merged out of existence.”

And he’s bullish for another reason, as well. After three years of losing money, Fallon finally is looking forward to his first glimpse of black ink. “The only thing I knew about food was eating it,” he says. “But every business is a tough business to learn. We’re on the verge of some growth here.”

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