Test Kitchen serves up dishes from a different chef every few days at its Pico Boulevard storefront in Beverlywood. Since the menu, the cooking crew and suppliers change every time a new chef turns on the burners, it’s a logistical nightmare – like opening a restaurant two or three times a week.

“There’s no sane restaurateur who would subject themselves and their staff to what we’ve done,” said Brian Saltsburg, who, along with Bill Chait, opened the restaurant for what they believe will be a short run.

Chefs come to the location to experiment with dishes for new restaurants or try their hand at different styles of cuisine. Or, if they’re out of work, they can satisfy their need to get behind the stove. The restaurant also features different “mixologists” crafting cocktails that complement the menu of the day.

It’s as tough for the chefs as it is for Saltsburg and Chait.

“It was challenging to operate,” said Jordan Kahn, chef at Vietnamese restaurant Red Medicine, who was the first to cook at Test Kitchen when it launched Aug. 18. Since then, chefs such as Ricardo Zarate, Walter Manzke and Neal Fraser have cooked up meals at Test Kitchen – some for one evening and others for several. The chefs receive a percentage of sales.

So far, Saltsburg said Test Kitchen’s dining room, bar and patio areas, which serve about 80 people combines, have been packed with food lovers.

The restaurant operates in a three-story building. The bottom floor was once occupied by Spark Wood Fire Grill. Saltsburg and Chait are planning an eatery called Anticucho on the second floor; meanwhile they’re using the first floor for Test Kitchen.

Saltsburg said some chefs were hesitant to come to Test Kitchen because they were unsure of what to expect. But now, chefs are calling about their chance to get behind the Test Kitchen stove. Some who’ve tried it are already asking for a return engagement.

It’s unclear when Test Kitchen will serve its final meal, but don’t count on booking reservations too far in advance – Saltsburg said he doesn’t plan to keep it going for long. He’ll decide what to do with the first-floor space after that.

“We are continuously evaluating how to proceed,” he said. “Things are changing at a rapid speed and it’s slightly overwhelming.”