Chaya Brings Centuries of Tradition to Downtown

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The Asian fusion empire of Chaya Brasserie has recently expanded its reach to downtown Los Angeles. Despite being open less than a month, the new Chaya Downtown is already home to a lively lunch crowd, serving its trademark brand of Franco-Japonaise fare.

The Chaya group is one of the most prominent and longstanding names in Asian fusion on the West Coast. Though California has been a major force in the popularization of the genre in America, the Chayas have their roots in early 17th century Japan. Opening their first teahouse 390 years ago, the Tsunoda family has adopted the French sensibility integral to the “brasserie” concept along the way. The family found a kindred spirit in Shigefumi Tachibe, executive chef of the Chayas. A master of formal French technique, the Tsunodas invited their fellow countryman to collaborate on their first stateside venture in 1981, La Petite Chaya.

Tucked into the courtyard of City National Bank Plaza, Chaya Downtown shares the same architectural “bones” as neighboring Drago Centro. Though the vaulted ceiling and glass fa & #231;ade are the same, the rest is a mishmash of familiar cultural references. The etched mirrors over the bar are a brasserie requisite, while the expansive mural of a cherry tree grounds the d & #233;cor in a firmly Asian aesthetic. The most interesting touch, perhaps, is the foyer’s light fixture, a whimsical collection of neon plastic hairclips, clothespins and other replicas of objects that were found on an English shore.

Having noticed the small sushi bar tucked into the back of the dining room, we are interested in sampling that fare. The menu features a handful of fusion-type rolls with ingredients such as seared Kobe beef, as well as a few plates of assorted sushi. The Dragon Roll is, essentially, a spicy tuna roll with cucumber, topped with eel and avocado, and arranged around a green salad. Though the roll is passable, it is the simple salad that intrigues us with its delectable ginger dressing. We also get the omakase nine pieces of nigiri and a California roll. Though we are a bit disappointed by the latter, the nigiri is quite good. Good luck navigating the stainless steel chopsticks though they are surprisingly challenging even for the experienced.

A perfect example of Chaya’s varied influences is the small celery and fennel salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano topped with marinated Spanish white anchovies. The marinade is fresh and citrusy, and the sun-dried tomatoes give the dish an unmistakable California flair. The chopped Cajun shrimp salad sounds great on the menu, but disappoints on the plate. Tossed with Asiago cheese and white corn, and dressed in a mixture of lemon vinaigrette and jalapeno aioli, the tiny shrimp are tough and tasteless. The salad tastes curiously like prepackaged taco seasoning and nothing like Cajun spices.

Not content to just incorporate the typical French bistro classics into the cuisine, Chaya borrows from the colonies in the quest to create new signature dishes. The Moroccan seafood paella is served in a heavy, cast iron pan, with the paella’s bright saffron hues accented by diced red Piquillo peppers and zucchini, all topped with a filet of New Zealand orange roughy.

At this point, most Japanese restaurants are serving soy or sweet miso-glazed cod and we are eager to see how Chaya’s version of the crowd favorite stacks up. We are pleased though not blown away by the Alaskan black cod filet, achingly tender yet crispy at the edges. While the fish is great, our issue is with the bed of rice; it’s every bit as sweet as the cod, leaving us in sugar shock. The dish is in sore need of a savory counterpoint. The sheer amount of sugar tempts us to skip dessert, but thankfully we reconsider after glancing at the menu.

Though most Japanese restaurants lack in the dessert department, this is where the French really shine, and Chaya is no exception. Though the desserts have Asian elements, they are as decadent as one would expect at any brasserie. The banana cake is excellent, moist and fluffy, garnished with a large slice of crunchy caramelized banana and a scoop of cream-cheese ice cream. But don’t leave without trying the warm milk chocolate croissant bread pudding. It’s every bit as intensely rich and gooey as it sounds, taking into account the caramel ice cream melting atop. Pair it with a cup of Chaya’s Esmeralda Geisha coffee, served in a French press.

Chaya has joined the ranks of the downtown elite, cementing its status with a gorgeous space filled with excited diners. But Chaya is determined not to be just another upscale lunch spot catering to the expense account crowd with terrific happy hour and late night specials, Chaya has set about wooing downtown residents as well. It looks like the centuries-old Chaya tradition will continue in downtown Los Angeles for a long time.


CHAYA DOWNTOWN

Where: 525 S. Flower St., Los Angeles, 90071. Cross Street: Fifth Street

When: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Monday through Friday; dinner, 5:30 to 10 p.m., Monday through Wednesday and 5 to 10 p.m., Thursday through Saturday; closed Sunday

What to Try: Soy-glazed black cod, Moroccan paella, warm milk chocolate croissant bread pudding

Noise Level: Moderate to high

Meeting Room: Yes, 20-36

Parking: City National Bank Plaza garage, $5 for three hours with validation

Price Range: Appetizers, $8-$13; entrees, $14-$24

Reservations: (213) 236-9577



Reviewer Lindsey Styrwoll can be reached at [email protected].

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