Joachim Splichal’s ubiquitous Patina Group has come to be synonymous with fine dining in Los Angeles. With his countless restaurants dominating the downtown scene, Splichal has made an unexpected move westward to open his first seafood restaurant, Paperfish. Occupying the old Maple Drive space in a curiously off-the-beaten-path section of Beverly Hills, Paperfish is a hip, quirky addition to the Patina empire.
With the continued success of Water Grill and the popularity of still relatively new Providence, L.A. diners have shown an enduring interest in seafood. Lacking the grandeur of both competitors, Paperfish is a more whimsical, casual answer to the success of these restaurants: Its menu is broken up into sections with pithy titles such as “raw,” “flat,” and “shell.”
The spirit carries through with a complete redesign of the space by architect Clive Wilkinson. Paperfish is airy and modern, but not lacking in warmth. With its inviting, low-slung bar at the entrance, a ramp descends into the dining room, bisecting the space. Though the layout is strikingly similar to Patina’s downtown flagship with booths lining the walls and smaller interior tables, the effect is much more pleasant: I didn’t feel as though I were dining in a fishbowl. White walls are accented with orange and red chairs and contemporary art in warm shades adorn the walls.
Despite the strong statements Paperfish makes with its d & #233;cor and kitschy menus, the “concept” does not unseat the cuisine, thanks in part to the talents of executive chef Yianni Koufodontis, formerly of Spago and Maple Drive, and more recently Petros in Manhattan Beach. The menu’s influences are wide and range from Japanese to Spanish, while other inventive dishes turn classics on their ear such as a pan-roasted Irish sea trout “Waldorf style” with apple, celery, and candied walnuts and a grilled mahi mahi “BLT.” However, the restaurant borrows its name from its signature dish, New Zealand red snapper baked “en papillote” (in parchment paper) in a Thai fish broth.
Tough choices
On both visits, we pored over the menu endlessly before making selections. It is one of those rare occasions when everything sounds so interesting that decisions are agony. With detailed descriptions that still leave room for surprises, we relied heavily on our knowledgeable servers, quizzing them endlessly. We tried the corn meal crusted oysters served with the half shells propped up on little mounds of sticky rice. Slightly warm, they are garnished with minced Thai chili and peanuts. The tuna carpaccio gets a similar treatment with chili, coconut milk, lime, and crushed macadamia nuts. Pressed into the cold plate, the flavors are unexpected. The only problem is that the fish falls apart when unstuck from the plate. I suspect it is prepared en masse before the lunch rush hits.
Veering away from seafood, we order the warm field mushroom salad. Perfectly matched with Manouri cheese, roasted tomato, and pomegranate, the vinaigrette is lightly sweetened with honey. Its earthy flavors are echoed in the chestnut soup, topped with a drizzle of rich sturgeon mousse and winter black truffle.
Moving on to entrees, we are steered towards the saut & #233;ed skate wing. Cooked to a golden brown, the fish is thin and crispy in a white wine sauce with raisins and capers. Instead of the standard mashed potatoes, it is served with an artichoke puree, a welcome and thoughtful substitute. The wild Virginia striped bass is saut & #233;ed with hedgehog mushrooms, house-cured ham, and giant lima beans with a mascarpone emulsion that turns the dish into a haute version of a stew.
Though a bit redundant after the carpaccio, we cannot resist the tuna, seared so lightly it melts in your mouth like sushi. Served in a vibrant green wasabi broth, it is accompanied by a side of excellent tempura vegetables. And how can we not order the signature red snapper “en papillote?” Working in a fish restaurant in college, I fondly recall cutting open parchment paper at tableside with scissors, and the steam that poured out of the enclosure. At Paperfish, they put on quite a show as the fish is rolled out on a cart and with one snip, the broth and the rest are deposited in a shallow bowl. The Thai fish broth is wonderfully complex with notes of spice and citrus and so good you could drink it.
Though markedly less complex and fussy than Patina’s dessert menu think two or three different elements as opposed to four or five Paperfish maintains the same playful nature with unexpected pairings and handmade ingredients. Revolving items include the “crepe brulee,” panna cotta with an espresso gelee, brioche, and pecan sticky bun. We try the spiced pumpkin souffl & #233;, served cold with a white wine-poached pear and pomegranate caramel syrup. With a consistency more like cheesecake but less dense, it is a nice finish, especially with a French press of coffee. Also good is the berry gratinee, baked in a Grand Marnier sauce with shards of meringue and a pinch of black pepper for dimension. The best, though, is the “bougatsa,” a vanilla bean and semolina custard in a pastry with blackberries and cr & #269;me anglaise. Served with a scoop of cinnamon ice cream, it is out of this world.
Though Paperfish is abuzz with a constant stream of bus staff and runners pouring water and replacing flatware, the servers are somewhat more relaxed in their approach. Though they are seasoned, they are exuberant as they wax on about their favorite menu items. One server, recognizing us from our first previous visit, rushes to our table with a taste of a Sauvignon Blanc that has just come in. Working hard to win over a growing clientele, the staff members clearly believes they have something special on their hands.
Splichal gets it right with his fresh take on seafood. Possessing a warmth and humor that Patina lacks, Paperfish is like a whimsical younger sibling taking its first steps in this quiet Beverly Hills neighborhood. Remarkably good, especially considering its newness, Paperfish is more than worthy of its pedigree and a visit.
Reviewer Lindsey Styrwoll can be reached at [email protected].
Paperfish
Where:
345 N. Maple Drive, Beverly Hills, 90210. Cross Street: Dayton Way
When:
Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. (bar open afternoons); Monday through Thursday, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.; closed Sunday.
What to Try:
Tuna carpaccio, warm field mushroom salad, saut & #233;ed skate wing, New Zealand red snapper “en papillote,” wild Virginia striped bass with mascarpone emulsion, bougatsa dessert, spiced pumpkin souffl & #233;
Parking:
Underground lot free with validation at lunch; valet (dinner only), $6
Price Range:
Lunch appetizers, $9-$16; entrees, $17-$28
Reservations:
(310) 858-6030
